LIVE BY DESIGN | Two South Africans unpack democracy and privilege in Vietnam

As planned months ago, Mapi and I set off on the last of my 70th year’s travel adventures – Vietnam. Her partner and child carer stepped up to make this possible so the reunion on Valentine’s Day would be extra special.

We began our travels so light-heartedly. We welcomed this short break after an exceptionally intense January. What then led to our final evening spent in sober discussion about democracy, privilege, race, class, political passivity, and our growing anxiety?

Let us begin with the positives.

We had fun as two women and felt safe as travellers. Although male hands pawed me in throngs in Egypt and India, Vietnam was crowded and courteous. We were very aware of the optics of us as a travelling twosome. Mapi was always the only Black African in the dining room or cocktail lounge. We both have the privilege of economic class, but Mapi’s presence accentuated our global inheritance of race disparities.

There were some eye-openers.

Firstly, the vast scale of employment that tourism services generate: the sheer numbers of tailoring shops, dozens of small massage parlours, coffee shops, curios and cooking classes, walking tours and so on. Jobs, jobs, and more jobs.

Secondly, there was access to Wi-Fi on a scale neither of us had experienced before. Imagine being told, “The Wi-Fi password is 12345678.” That happened over and over again. An abundance mindset. Connectivity to support economic activity.

Thirdly, buying power. With our rands, we were still able to indulge in affordable retail therapy: ceramics, made-to-measure couture – even shoes. We welcomed foot massages after long hours of walking. And the breathtaking beauty of World Heritage Halong Bay is wondrous.

Fourthly, Vietnamese news often covers corruption cases – as does South African news. However, in Vietnam last year, 1 646 individuals were prosecuted. The government reports a 91.06% Crime Report Resolution rate.

Recent prosecutions include the former minister of health (18-year prison sentence), the former minister of science and technology, and a provincial party secretary – all for their involvement in bribery and pocketing money during the Covid-19 epidemic.

Are there downsides?

Vietnam is a one-party Communist state. The Human Rights Measurement Index (HRMI) of “safety from the state” gives it a 4.6 rating out of 10. This includes arbitrary arrest, torture, and ill-treatment. Civil and political rights receive only a 2.3 rating. The “very bad” scores include assembly and association, as well as opinion and expression.

Decree 147, issued in December 2024, expands government power to regulate online content. Patricia Gossman, an associate director of the Asian division of Human Rights Watch, sees the decree as strengthening government’s capacity to “crack down on civil society”.

Vietnam has the death penalty, which is exercised for crimes such as murder, corruption, and drug trafficking. At the end of 2022, more than 1 200 people were in prison under the sentence of death.

Phew. Whatever our South African shortfalls, our hard-won democracy will be deeply appreciated.

With abundant Wi-Fi, it was easy for us to keep abreast of world news. What most caught our attention was US President Donal Trump, his executive orders, and Elon Musk’s actions. I get a stomach churn when I read US news.

Transgender.

Gaza.

Federal employee cuts.

The cut of US ties to the World Health Organisation.

The withdrawal from Paris talks on climate change.

Then, closer to home, what will be the unfolding impact of White House views on land restitution as the means of acquiring “ethnic minority” Afrikaners’ agricultural property without compensation? The US’s potential to leverage political change by cutting aid and revoking trade agreements is concerning.

Mapi reflected on how Musk’s depth of influence reminds her of the Gupta days. State capture to the extent that as an unelected “special government employee”, Musk holds the executive position as head of the Department of Government Efficiency. Musk led the offer to buy ChatGPT’s parent company this week for nearly $100 million.

I am fearful of evolving consequences. My parents were teenagers during the rise of fascism in the 1930s. Their lives were irrevocably shaped by fascism as an “ultranationalist, authoritarian political philosophy”. (Holocaust Encyclopaedia).

Our fellow travellers on the boat cruise all came from countries (Germany, Italy, and the US) that experienced a rightward electoral shift in 2024. Alternatives for Germany won a state election. Brothers of Italy gained 29% of the votes.

Yet, in terms of political discourse, we were surrounded by silence. As the sun dipped below the horizon, signalling cocktail hour, chit-chat remained at the level of travel anecdotes, family matters, and health concerns.

We exchanged puzzled glances every night, wondering why no one ever mentioned current events. Was it a lack of interest? Or perhaps a conscious decision to remain detached from the unsettling realities of our times? Or that once you have voted, you leave politicians to get on with their jobs? Or is political discussion off-limits while on holiday?

It is true that we did not broach political subjects – we went with the flow.

For Mapi, whose day job is as the TV newsroom director, the juxtaposition of joy and discomfort became palpable as the news turmoil escalated, particularly with Trump’s targeted sanctions against South Africa. Here she was, miles away from home, watching political chaos unfold in real-time, surrounded by chit-chat on mundane topics.

A crucial lesson began to emerge: sometimes, taking a break is essential for our mental well-being and, subsequently, our ability to engage effectively with the world around us.

But engage we must.

Our travels left us treasuring our democracy.

We recognised our privilege. And that with that privilege comes the responsibility to protect what we have for those who come after us. That is legacy work. There is a Tanzanian saying, “We do not inherit the earth. We borrow it from our children.”